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TEXERE's Art-Deco-Project

Marina Camerotto and Stefania Domini
Students of the Course TIESSI. Tradizione e Creatività. Laboratorio di Tessitura e Textile Design, Udine/Italy
Marina Camerotto


Shawl woven with 6 threads - 2 scarves interwoven about 160x40 cm.
Silkwool (25% silk and 75% wool), silk, and Shantug yasper Silk.
Spheres of Onyx and Topaz.

In order to create this shawl inspired by ART DECO, I referred to Guido Ravasi (born in Milan, 1877, and died in Cardina, 1946). Entrepreneur, and textile designer of Jacquard, he was an Italian weaver very active in the city of Como (in the northwest of Italy). He was highly respected in the most prestigious European exhibitions of decorative arts. Recognized for the refined silks he used not only in clothing but in interior decor, but especially esteemed for his tie production. The Mid-Twenties represent a very creative period for this artist-entrepreneur who often offered interlaced products with a square pattern, which would repeat and give the effect of a checkerboard. He liked to place this favourite pattern on the walls and interior decor of his surroundings, almost as a blank crossword puzzle to solve.
Sifting through over eighty thousand different samples of silks for ties, held at the “Industrie Seriche Nazionali Guido Ravasi”, which have been collected since 1918, I was inspired to design this shawl I am presenting. It is the result of the interlacing of two already woven bands, which were separated and then woven again to form the very unique and attractive colour contrast. Yellow (gold) and Black are the two most common colours used in that Era.
The materials designed to create ties involve much simpler interlacing, compared to the artistic fabrics used by the Ravasi company. To simplify the weaving, the interlacing used in tie production is limited to include bases of silk bourette, or bouclé threads, which give enough movement to the fabric, without the need for complicated interlacing.
To weave the shawl being presented, I used a batavia structure and a canvas on a warp of yellow and black single coloured wool-silk, along with white silk used to emphasize the spooled stripes for half the length. The same wool-silk thread makes up the structure on which, using the same colour tone, plain threads of shantung silk were casually alternated, to give the fabric being created a three-dimensional effect.

Stefania Domini


Woven scarf to loom heddles eight
150 (without fringes) x 35 cm  
Cotton and viscose, in different shades of black. 

The delicate geometric patterns inserted inside the main geometry of the scarf belong to the textile tradition from Friuli and Carnia areas, and they especially are a tribute to the memory of Valentino Comis (born 1886), the last Friulian master weaver from Forni di Sopra (Udine).
The main reference is the Italian artist Ernesto Michahelles (born in Florence in 1893) He was active in various fields of artistic production and designed garments with colour combinations and geometric combinations innovative for its time and inspired by the Art Deco style.
The second reference is from the architectural field, D'Aronco Palace located in the city of Udine. On the facades we can recognize geometries that are typical of the Art Deco period: the geometric composition of the three longitudinal bands, with the central one larger than others.
Despite having used a unique colour range, which is that of the black yarn alternating with polished and matt yarn, the weave generates the refined effects of reflected light that give the scarf a character of modern elegance: monochrome and elegant glossy and matte contrasts meet the taste and is easy to match to clothing. The innovative idea is to use the way the light reflects on glossy and matte yarns to create textile patterns also from the sophisticated and elegant effects of colour and texture. The elegance and simplicity of the total black textile work give this scarf a deep and refined elegance.

  


Università delle LiberEtà del Friuli Venezia Giulia, via Napoli 4 - 33100 UDINE (ITALY)
http://www.libereta-fvg.it/joomla15/index.php?lang=en

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