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TEXERE's Art-Deco-Project

Anna Passerelli and Regina Tosolini
Students of the Course TIESSI. Tradizione e Creatività. Laboratorio di Tessitura e Textile Design, Udine/Italy
Anna Passerelli

Woven scarf on a loom with 8 heddles 150 x 40 cm
A mixture of violet and orange wool for the warp with black wool for the selvedge. Orange rayon wefts for the main pattern and various natural and synthetic yarns for the accessory wefts.

The scarf is hand woven and decorated with random wefts overlapped on geometric patterns created with a damask textile technique. The composition is freely inspired by the Art Deco style. I wanted to interpret what I think is a distinctive aspect of Art Deco, which consists of the perfect conciliation of contrasting elements: geometry and naturalism, straight lines and curves, order and disorder. The background pattern is geometrical and draws on the line and check motif – the check being used to create an optical effect- popular with this international style with influences of the Wiener Werkstätte as well. I was inspired for the "intrusive" wefts by interior decoration swatches of the Twenties and Thirties, from a private collection coming from a former furniture factory, Sello, in Udine, which is now a Liceo, (Italian secondary school) specializing in art subjects. The choice of the yarns plays on a contrast too: shiny and opaque symbolically reconcile elegance and luxury, aspects which the Art Deco is normally associated with, and that practicality which is typical of women's clothes in a society which suddenly changed after World War I.

Regina Tosolini

Woven scarf in double-block tabby on an eights shaft loom
Finished dimensions: 130x40 cm
Merino wool and lurex in black, beige and powder pink of light, dark and golden shades.

The scarf, hand woven in a geometric design, is inspired by decorative aesthetic models used in architecture, furnishing and fashion in the early twentieth century, especially in the north east of Italy which greatly resented the influence of the Viennese Secessionist Movement. In the border area, in fact, there were many graphics suggestions that often contained geometric elements that were based on the marked colour contrasts proposed by Gustav Klimt and Koloman Moser, which were also emphasized in the artistic creations of Art Deco style. Stripes and checks, woven in a regular manner characterizing the scarf, are the leitmotiv of the period, which is repeated by alternating black and gold in addition to the powder pink colour which softens the chromatic harmony of the contrast and thus obtaining a refined effect.

Università delle LiberEtà del Friuli Venezia Giulia, via Napoli 4 - 33100 UDINE (ITALY)